Installing Locks part 1

Installing a Lock

Installing Locks

Surface-Mounted Locks

All surface-mounted locks count on screws for their holding power. If the screws don’t sink at least half-way into the door, you need to buy longer ones. For additional strength, coat the screw threads with glue before driving them into the pilot holes.

If an intruder can reach to unlock the door by breaking a window, think about buying a double cylinder lock that requires a key to both sides in order to open. Also, install your lock with one-way screws. This keeps the burglar from removing the whole lock. In purchasing a double-cylinder lock, check for an included extra set of conventional screws. These are for a trial installation. Before you mount the lock and strike plate permanently, be sure that you have placed the extra set and made any adjustments.

Any mounted surface lock should be placed 8 to 10 inches higher than the existing door knob to make easy access. When drilling for installation, work from one side of the door until the drill bit just barely penetrates the other side. Then switch sides to complete the hole. This will prevent the drill from splintering the door’s surface.

For Installation:

1)      Locate the distance from the door’s edge to the center of the cylinder hole. Add the distance from the door edge to cylinder edge to half the cylinder diameter.

2)      Attach the lock’s back plate to the inside of the door. Then, draw the cylinder into the door with the mounting screws.

3)      Slip the latch case over the drill pilot holes and screw the latch case to the door. The tang allows you a little leeway.

4)      Mount the strike plate to the jamb. To make the fingers mesh smoothly with the bolt, add shims under the strike plate.